The excitement starts to build almost immediately after crossing the Kootenay River. I’m headed to Cranbrook, BC, for the second edition of Cold Ride, a winter fatbike race that feels as much like a reunion of distant friends as it does a test of endurance. Walking into the pre-race check-in at North Star Bicycle Co. feels like coming home. People don’t rush in and out, choosing to linger and see who else made the trip out this year. 

Events like this feel rare. It’s a winter race that’s competitive without being intimidating, challenging without being exclusionary. Cold Ride has quietly become a winter highlight, and it’s no wonder riders travel from across the country, and increasingly from abroad, to take part. 

Beyond the race, Cranbrook offers incredible access to winter adventure. Forests and rolling hills surround the city, with trails easily accessed from town or just a short drive. Plus, local cafes, breweries and accommodations make it easy to turn the race into more than just a weekend trip, if you have the legs for it. 

With two routes on tap, roughly 60 km or 130 km, both seasoned endurance riders and those just getting their start in winter racing can test their limits. The shorter route, dubbed The Freezie, is challenging without demanding months of training, dipping into the South Star trail network twice and doing some light exploring on local forestry roads. The Big Chill, on the other hand, is there for riders eager to push themselves deep into ultra-distance territory, following the Freezie course for the first 30 kilometres before diving further into the backcountry along roads rarely traveled outside of race weekend. 

Pre-race jitters are calmed the night before at Encore Brewing, where race entrants are encouraged to gather, eat, drink and get to know each other. The sprawling tables fill quickly. Bowling pins crash in the background. Pizzas, burgers and other unique spins on classic pub fare circulate between new friends. It all combines to make riders feel at home, no matter how far they’ve travelled. With the Freezie and Big Chill riders facing different start times the following morning, it’s an easy way to connect, chat gear and trail conditions and settle in for the long day ahead. 

On race morning the crowds gather just outside the city at Terry Leggett Hall, perched just downhill from the South Star Trail Network. Both distances start and finish on these trails where the punchy climbs and rowdy descents steal your breath away in equal amounts. After leaving the forest, the courses wind themselves through a myriad of picturesque gravel and logging roads, leading you higher and higher into the hills until you hit the reprieve of the first aid station. 

Here, volunteers call out splits, refill bottles, restock pockets and hand up snacks from generous sponsors. Some have even been known to offer a shot of cinnamon whisky to fire up the next long stretch for Big Chill riders or to warm the spirits of cracked Freezie riders heading toward the finish line. It’s here you’re reminded of the incredible atmosphere, with the local sponsors and volunteers making you feel like a pro athlete as you catch a well-earned break.

Later, every rider across the finish line brings a fresh round of cheers and applause. While there’s a podium and prizes on the line, crossing the finish line of either distance is treated as an achievement. Each rider is greeted by high-fives, handshakes and even finish-line interviews with one of the race directors. As more and more people arrive, the crowd grows, sharing tales of trail conditions, mechanical mishaps and comparisons to the year prior. 

The day after the race comes one of the key elements of Cold Ride: the post-race brunch, put on by local favourite Max’s Place. The meal is marked by plates piled high with pancakes, sausage, fruit and baked goods. Laughter fills the hall as podiums highlight the top finishers. There’s even an award for The Bravest Caboose, a nod to the racer who spent the longest time on course. People head back for second and third cups of coffee, spending time with like-minded cyclists, nature-lovers and athletes. 

The hall parking lot stays full for hours, riders lingering, reluctant to head home. Cold Ride might be what draws people to Cranbrook and the East Kootenays, but it's the trails, the warmth of the people and the easy access to winter adventure that bring them back.